Jerry asked for an update when we returned from camping south of Libertad. The road was great, from Caborca to Y Griega it's still narrow and there was quite a bit of local traffic. From there on, pretty empty, great shape, no detours. From Libertad we go another 15 miles south and then turn off to El Desemboque (note, this isn't the same Desemboque as the one N of Puerto Lobos) . We used to go to the coast on some dirt roads between there and Libertad, but they have all been gated with signs for "Cimmaron Ranch", which I believe was one of those giant fantasy developments. Too bad because there was some great camping down there. I believe you can still get to Punta Seria though.
Anyway, the turnoff to Desemboque is unmarked, but easy to find (it's where the power lines veer away from the highway). two wheel drive all the way but good ground clearance needed. About a 45 minute drive. The town is very poor, a small tienda and not much else for supplies. Most of the residents speak Seri. From there we head south again, another five miles, and veer right to the Coast--the road network is complicated, quite a bit of deep sand, just aim for the Ocean. Lots of potential places to camp 4X4 and a shovel recommended.
We have an inflatable and a 9.9 hp motor--enough to take us across to Tibaron or to Isla Patos when the weather is good--which it was. The fishing was disappointing this trip, unlike past years we couldn't seem to find corvina or white sea bass, but lots of pinto bass. The locals gather scallops when the tides are low, and are happy to trade for whatever. Great beachcombing, lots of pilot whales, porpoises, and grey whales, incredible bird watching. Not a single gringo to be seen anywhere around. Still feels as safe as always, the violence seems a million miles away. Never had anything go missing either.
I'm pretty fond of Puerto Libertad, maybe cause I've been going there for thirty years now. The giant smokestacks of the powerplant will keep it from ever being a tourist destination but there are a couple good restaurants and several hotels. Walking around at night it could still (almost) be 1979, once again not a gringo in sight.
Going back, we returned along the costera the whole way--almost going all the way into Rocky Point. The road is great and it almost seems faster (but longer and no supermercado for stocking up on supplies) to go this way.
Anyway, the turnoff to Desemboque is unmarked, but easy to find (it's where the power lines veer away from the highway). two wheel drive all the way but good ground clearance needed. About a 45 minute drive. The town is very poor, a small tienda and not much else for supplies. Most of the residents speak Seri. From there we head south again, another five miles, and veer right to the Coast--the road network is complicated, quite a bit of deep sand, just aim for the Ocean. Lots of potential places to camp 4X4 and a shovel recommended.
We have an inflatable and a 9.9 hp motor--enough to take us across to Tibaron or to Isla Patos when the weather is good--which it was. The fishing was disappointing this trip, unlike past years we couldn't seem to find corvina or white sea bass, but lots of pinto bass. The locals gather scallops when the tides are low, and are happy to trade for whatever. Great beachcombing, lots of pilot whales, porpoises, and grey whales, incredible bird watching. Not a single gringo to be seen anywhere around. Still feels as safe as always, the violence seems a million miles away. Never had anything go missing either.
I'm pretty fond of Puerto Libertad, maybe cause I've been going there for thirty years now. The giant smokestacks of the powerplant will keep it from ever being a tourist destination but there are a couple good restaurants and several hotels. Walking around at night it could still (almost) be 1979, once again not a gringo in sight.
Going back, we returned along the costera the whole way--almost going all the way into Rocky Point. The road is great and it almost seems faster (but longer and no supermercado for stocking up on supplies) to go this way.
