Rocky Point Talk archive

Cholla Powder coating

Started by fatboyharley · May 17, 2020 · 37 replies
fatboyharley
Does anyone have the contact information for the Powder coating business in Cholla Bay. I have it but it is in RP so not doing me any good right now.TIA
Jungle Jim
So what do you need done? Where is the part located?

I have an excellent service here in Yuma.

Powder Tech II at 928-344-9104.

JJ
fatboyharley
security doors but thanks
Mexico Joe
GOOGLE MAPS... that medical degree doesn't come very handy
Mexico Joe
+52 638 382 5450
Mexico Joe
chollabaypowdercoating.com
Mexico Joe
Calle F, Playa Arenos, Bahía la Choya, Son., Mexico
Mexico Joe
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cholla+Bay+Powder+Coating/@31.3401501,-113.6227475,17.37z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x812bba87c9d56823:0xddc1010ea2519ce2!8m2!3d31.3383063!4d-113.6181197
Mexico Joe
How does powder coat hold up to the rust? I would think one little nick in the powder coat would be enough for rust to set in... crazy what some of you have to put up with down there in regards to salt air and rusting... I would love to be an owner some day but damn, that is a PITA!
Terry C
We had our gates powder coated in Phoenix and they lasted about 5 years with regular spraying and wiping down. the problem is pin holes in the welds although we checked for that and you still get them. The air gets in them and starts peeling the coating off.....
brokenwave
Any thing steel doesn't do very well close to the ocean even with powder coating.

Powder coating does better vs regular paint, my experience in Cholla Bay, PC paint life is 2X that of regular paint.

Heck, I'm 150 feet from the water in Cholla and even my concrete pillars and bond beam concrete supports are splitting
because the paint allowed moisture to penetrate which caused the re-bar inside to start rusting which has made the concrete
posts to split open.
When you have constant 15 mph winds from the SE and high humidity June-Sept like Penasco has, that's
a tough environment for anything with metal in it to deal with.
The closer you are to the water the worse it is, being 1/4 mile in from the wind side makes a huge difference.
fatboyharley
I have wooded driveway gates and doors and they need to be sanded completly down and new spar urthene twice a year. Talk about labor intensive. If the sand blows hard it completely strips the varnish and the process has to be done again except this time you have to sand to lower the grains that the "sand blasting of the sand" did. If something would last three years I would be happy.
brokenwave
fatboyharley said:

I have wooded driveway gates and doors and they need to be sanded completly down and new spar urthene twice a year. Talk about labor intensive. If the sand blows hard it completely strips the varnish and the process has to be done again except this time you have to sand to lower the grains that the "sand blasting of the sand" did. If something would last three years I would be happy.

That's for sure, the wind and sand are trouble. In Phx, I repaint my house exterior every 8-10 years, my place in Cholla every 3 years.
In Cholla if you look at the concrete power poles close to the water
on the upper 1/3 of them (south east side of them) the concrete has been eroded away from the wind, sand and humidity.
They look like cacti with their ribs exposed, I'm waiting for them to come down.
You show CFE electric workers and they shrug when looking at the poles.
joanC
My sister has wood gates, doors, fence and trim close to the salt water in Los Concha, and she uses plain cheap car oil, new or used, once every 2 years. Impervious to salt spray and sun, and it's easy to apply with an old paint brush.
mexicoruss
joanC said:

My sister has wood gates, doors, fence and trim close to the salt water in Los Concha, and she uses plain cheap car oil, new or used, once every 2 years. Impervious to salt spray and sun, and it's easy to apply with an old paint brush.

us too
fatboyharley
I tried that and it attracted even more sand and dirt After fourteen years I want no more wood in addition I seem to be having a lot of termite issues with anything wood at my house.
Mexico Joe
brokenwave said:

That's for sure, the wind and sand are trouble. In Phx, I repaint my house exterior every 8-10 years, my place in Cholla every 3 years.
In Cholla if you look at the concrete power poles close to the water
on the upper 1/3 of them (south east side of them) the concrete has been eroded away from the wind, sand and humidity.
They look like cacti with their ribs exposed, I'm waiting for them to come down.
You show CFE electric workers and they shrug when looking at the poles.


I would think that the rust is causing a bonding issue now with the concrete. I know from metal work and welding that rust contaminates what you're welding and creates bonding issues later... That's why I mentioned that once you get a nick or chip or pinhole whatever in the top coat, powder or paint the metal is now susceptible to rust. Mild steel especially which is your rod iron too. Just one little nick or chip in the paint is enough for the moisture to get in. Once that happens it's over from there. Moisture is metal cancer and rust will literally start to eat at the metal from the inside.
brokenwave
Joe, totally agree.
Penasco and Steel Metal=Rust, Exterior Wood=Flying Termites,
Cement=Erosion from Wind, sand and water.
Painted and Varnished surfaces=Erosion from Wind, Sand and water or paint bubbling from humidity getting under it.

Penasco=It's a tough environment that needs a lot of up keep. If you want a place close to the Ocean be prepared for it.
Terry C
What he ^ said!!!
fatboyharley
Yes when I bought fourteen years ago I never dreamed of how much work there was to maintain the place. Rented for 10 years but had blinders on as to the maintenance required. Small price to pay to being down there.
dirtsurfer
Even stainless-depending on the grade, can be rusty junk in a few years. Regarding rusting rebar, from my own experience and from closely watching construction in Mexico most rebar is rusty before it enters the walls. Somewhere on this site we discussed methods to relieve the rusty rebar problem and in some projects in the U.S. Teflon coated rebar is used. I have also seen fiberglass rebar which is pretty rare.
PintoPoint
I use a concrete sealer on all my exterior concrete and that seems to help. I also finished my home
joanC
My cousin Jose says good contractors in Penasco will charge a bit more and paint all rebar with anti-rust paint before using it.
Mexico Joe
dirtsurfer said:

Even stainless-depending on the grade, can be rusty junk in a few years. Regarding rusting rebar, from my own experience and from closely watching construction in Mexico most rebar is rusty before it enters the walls. Somewhere on this site we discussed methods to relieve the rusty rebar problem and in some projects in the U.S. Teflon coated rebar is used. I have also seen fiberglass rebar which is pretty rare.


Funny, the "stainless" hardware that I used on my 52qt marine cooler for the jet ski was more expensive than the cooler itself and after 3 years now it's so rusted I would have to cut it out if I wanted to replace anything. Obviously it's made in China (Donald Trump china voice).
dirtsurfer
Mexico Joe said:

Funny, the "stainless" hardware that I used on my 52qt marine cooler for the jet ski was more expensive than the cooler itself and after 3 years now it's so rusted I would have to cut it out if I wanted to replace anything. Obviously it's made in China (Donald Trump china voice).

I talked to a guy in Santo Tomas that bought a stainless barbecue and got two seasons out of it before it fell apart.
PintoPoint
The difference in Stainless Steels are amount of nickle added in the mix. The more nickle the less a magnet will stick to it and the better rust Resistance. I normally use 316 stainless.
Roberto
Powder coating does not work well on vehicles either. It looks great just after going on but the vibration of driving causes small cracks and then yes rust grows. The next issue is what is required to repair rust under powder coating? Had a large security/screen door done here.. Lots of little welds. In a few months, rust.
I have seen different examples of 'stainless steel' parts attached next to each other at the same time with one piece still shiny and the other rust.
I want to put good stainless hinges on the screens beachside. The aluminum ones available here last maybe a year even after I paint them front and back before installing. what grade would you suggest? assuming I can find them.
Last edited: May 26, 2020 at 1:22 PM
CheddarBob
Galvanized might last longer
Terry C
CheddarBob said:

Galvanized might last longer

That will help cover up the pin holes that start the rust bleed.
PintoPoint
Normally the only way to make powdercoat last is to hot dip galvanizing before powdercoating.
Terry C
One thing about galvanizing is if you are using tubing you have to have weep holes for the galvanize to enter and exit the tubing. At least 3/8” holes. We used to use a 45 caliber bullet to plug the hole then file to smooth.
Mexico Joe
Terry C said:

One thing about galvanizing is if you are using tubing you have to have weep holes for the galvanize to enter and exit the tubing. At least 3/8” holes. We used to use a 45 caliber bullet to plug the hole then file to smooth.


Can't you just buy already galvanized steel tube? I've heard you can get pretty sick off of the smoke if you mig weld galvanized steel.
CheddarBob
MJ your are correct. Ventilation is key when welding galvanized
Terry C
Mexico Joe said:

Can't you just buy already galvanized steel tube? I've heard you can get pretty sick off of the smoke if you mig weld galvanized steel.


you can buy stock pieces of tubing and then have it galvanized. After cutting it and welding it together you can use a galvanizing spray. It’s not the same as having the welded product galvanized. Drink a quart of milk before you weld galvanize and yes ventilation is key
playaperro
Like trying to get your air conditioner panels powder coated, I did have a reem air conditioner last 15 years, unbelievable the other a York had the bottom rot off everything fell through and it kept working lol, so should I get the new ones powder coating, they did paint the new ones haha.
brokenwave
I have a Mirage mini-split that sits on my roof still doing pretty well avoiding rust since 2012.
Trick is, I keep it covered when we're gone with a vinyl/leather look cover made in Penasco.
I'm also pretty close to the water and the cover is off at least 50 days per year.
I would like to know how it was painted to stay that good for over 8 years.
I'm glad that Mexico sells mini-splits that cost less than $500 and last awhile.
CheddarBob
Once they get from Mexico to Canada there cost just to buy a bare bones unit is $1500 to $2000. Installation extra
brokenwave
CheddarBob said:

Once they get from Mexico to Canada there cost just to buy a bare bones unit is $1500 to $2000. Installation extra

Pretty amazing they are so much in Canada. I see people selling Mirage units in Phx for $50-100 more then Penasco does.
All 3 of my units were installed for an average of $50 each. In Phx they want $500+ to install.